Healthy skin is beautiful skin: The natural aging process can be slowed down with a barrier-strengthening routine. Find out here what this can look like in three steps in the morning and evening.

Getting older is natural, as is skin aging. However, the aging process of our epidermis accelerated by external factors: UV radiation, environmental pollution, tobacco smoke, chemicals e.g. in cleaning products or an unbalanced diet can lead to an increased release of free radicals in our body, which can damage our Attack cellsTo ward these off, we need a strong skin barrier. The health of our epidermis, and therefore the signs of aging, depends on the intact barrier function of the skin. Well Aging is therefore directly linked to our skin healthwhich we can promote with an effective morning and evening routine. We will now tell you what this could look like.

Well Aging in 3 steps: Morning routine for a strong skin barrier

When it comes to skin care, there is never a one size fits all approach. Various active ingredients can strengthen our skin – this morning routine makes no claim to combine all of these possibilities. If you don’t have much time in the morning or don’t want to have much time, you can rely on these three steps, which form a very good basic routine for healthy skin. From oily to dry skin, all types are suitable, but that doesn’t mean that further steps wouldn’t be useful – you’ll find recommendations for these too.

1.Mild cleaning

During sleep, Sweat, bacteria (e.g. from the pillow) and excess sebum accumulate on our skin, which can cause mildCleaning in the morning gentle removed. But what does gentle actually mean? It means that the detergents (surfactants) in your cleaning product do not irritate your skin (barrier). Ultimately, it doesn’t matter whether you use a gel, a foam or a solid product. What counts are the inner values.

Different people’s tolerance varies – this also explains why some people “can” wash their face with shower gel. Aggressive cleansing removes too much oil from the skinwhat the natural balance disturbed and Removes moistureHowever, lipids (fats) and moisture are essential for the skin’s barrier function. But how do you know which cleansing products are irritating? INCIS You should avoid for a mild cleaning:

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLeS)
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)
  • Potassium Lauryl Sulfate
  • Magnesium Lauryl Sulfate
  • MEA-Lauryl Sulfate
  • Sodium Cocoate
  • Sodium Alkyl Sulfate

In addition to the type of surfactant, the Concentration in the product Cleaning that is too aggressive is one of the most common factors that weaken the skin barrier. This also includes rinsing your hair shampoo forwards over your face – this can also lead to skin irritation. Before using an aggressive product, it is better to skip cleansing in the morning altogether. This can also have a positive effect on dry skin types that do not have a problem with impurities.

2. Vitamin C Serum

vitamin C is one of the best-known active ingredients in cosmetics due to its anti-aging properties. But what does it actually do?

  1. On the one hand, vitamin C supports the skin to recreate healthy collagenCollagen is a protein that is an important component of our connective tissue. The collagen structure is responsible for the elasticity and firmness of our skin. As we age, our body’s natural collagen production decreases, which is evident in sagging skin and wrinkles.
  2. As already mentioned, free radicals our (skin) cells, including the body’s own collagen and elastin – the lipids in our skin barrier are also susceptible to destruction by free radicals. These are unstable molecules that cause damage when looking for reaction partners. Vitamin C is used to reduce the destructive effect of UV radiation etc., because the antioxidant “catches” free radicals a.
  3. Vitamin C can lighten pigment spots. The active ingredient can inhibit melanin production in the skin and thus prevent pigment accumulations. This can reduce existing pigment spots and prevent them from forming.

After cleansing, apply the vitamin C serum to dry skin and wait a few minutes before moving on to the next step.

3. Sun protection

As described above, UV radiation causes irreversible damage to our skinEven if the thought of applying sunscreen every morning seems strange, it is still the most effective anti-aging/slow-aging weapon we have. Sun promotes the breakdown of collagen and elastin and causes pigment spots to appear. UV radiation also damages the genetic material of skin cells and can cause the cells to grow uncontrollably (skin cancer).
Our tip: Get a sunscreen that you really like to wear. No whitening, no suncream-Smell and no heavy feeling on the skin. Only then will you wear it regularly. The price also plays a role: you will not use a very expensive product regularly.

Who “needs” more than 3 steps in the morning?

For dry skin, it is recommended to use a moisturizing serum Even though most vitamin C serums already contain moisturizing ingredients, this may not be enough for dehydrated skin. This can Glycerine or hyaluronan – two substances that bind water to the skin. Sufficient moisture ensures that the top layer of the epidermis remains intact. Well-hydrated skin also looks plumper (“younger”) and no wrinkles caused by dryness appear.

Effective evening routine in 3 steps for a strong skin barrier

In addition to vitamins and antioxidants, there are other ingredients that are important for a strong skin barrier. But why does the evening routine have to be different from the morning routine? Sunscreen is of course not needed, and vitamin C is also more useful when we are exposed to UV radiation. The main reason, however, is that most people slows down sebum production at nightwhich makes the skin more permeable. Less sebum means less “sealant” on the skin, which means more moisture can escape (= drier skin). It also means that the skin becomes more receptive to active ingredients (such as retinol). Regeneration processes also take place while we sleep, which we can support with skin care.

1.Oil cleaning

We put on sunscreen in the morning. That means that it has to be removed again in the evening! Of course, along with all the dirt that has accumulated on our skin during the day. The most effective and mildest is a Oil cleaner (either liquid or in the form of a balm) with which you can remove the sunscreen without leaving any residue. Apply this to the dry skin and work it in with circular movements for at least 30 seconds.

2. Retinol Serum

Here, too, there are many active ingredients that can be used. However, we have now decided on retinol because it fits best with the theme of “well aging”. Retinol is a form of vitamin A, whose Positive effects on skin aging scientifically proven The production of collagen and elastin is stimulated, as is the metabolism of the skin cells. What makes vitamin A particularly important for the skin barrier is its ability to Cell turnover and so on to accelerate skin renewal processes. More young cells mean a stronger skin.

There are different forms of vitamin A, each with varying degrees of effectiveness and tolerability. Basically, the milder and more tolerable the vitamin A, the less effective and less effective the effect. The most difficult thing with vitamin A is therefore to find a product that is effective and does not irritate the skin. That is why we recommend starting with a low dose and a weaker form of vitamin A, for example Retinol estersto start with. Once the skin gets used to it, you can increase the dose and maybe switch to retinol or even retinal.

After cleansing, apply your vitamin A product to dry skin and wait a few minutes before moving on to the next step. If you are new to vitamin A, you can also try the “sandwich” method and apply a layer of cream first and then the retinoid product. Retinol & Co. are always better used in the evening routine, as the ingredient is photosensitive. This means that it is broken down by UV rays and sunlight and therefore loses its effectiveness.

3. Cream with ceramides

As already mentioned, many people’s sebum production is reduced at night, which allows more water to escape from the skin (transepidermal water loss). Because this is not good for our skin barrier, we want to prevent it. We can do this with a lipid-containing creamwhich in the best case also contains ceramides.

Ceramides are Basic building blocks of the skinAt 60 percent, they make up the majority of the fats in our stratum corneum. Ceramides are therefore extremely important for our skin barrier; they occur naturally in our skin. With a care product containing ceramides, we can further support our skin’s barrier function.

However, it is not only important that your cream contains ceramides. It should also contain substances that Boost ceramide productioncan be integrated. Ceramide precursors such as hytosphingosine and sphingolipids are suitable for this, as they help the upper layers of the skin to produce more ceramides. So pay attention to these two terms in the INCI list.

Sources used: Guilherme Póvoa, Lucia Martins Diniz: Growth hormone system: skin interactionsHandbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Journal of Biological Chemistry

Brigitte